Lisbon City Break: Food & Sights

I had wanted to visit Lisbon for years, but somehow it kept eluding me. When I finally landed there in summer 2019, I sighed, “What took me so long?” I knew from the moment I laid eyes on this stunning city that we had a connection. It only grew stronger the more I explored.

The trip was to mark 20 years of friendship with my college best friend. We were both curious about Portugal and decided to plan a four-day Lisbon city break.

My first trip to Portugal was with a college friend to mark 20 years of our friendship.

Basia and I had met in Krakow and never lost track of each other, despite living in different countries and sometimes in different time zones. Even if we don’t see each other for months, we pick up right where we left off. Travel is one of the interests we share and although we like different destinations – I’m more city, she’s beach – Lisbon spoke to both of us.

Maybe it’s the freshly-baked pastéis de nata, Portugal’s famed egg custard tarts that won us over. Or maybe the azujelo-tiled houses on the hills of Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district, or the many miradouros (viewpoints) where you can watch some of the best sunsets in Europe with a glass of vinho verde and a bowl of black olives. Ah, all good reasons to visit Lisbon.

We like different destinations – I’m more city, she’s beach – but Lisbon spoke to both of us.

Our Lisbon city break included a sunset photoshoot in Alfama with Localgrapher and a food tour with Eating Europe that doubled as an introduction to the Portuguese culture, such as the expressive and melancholic fado music.

Lisbon food

Before the trip, I wasn’t familiar with Portugese food. I knew about pastéis de nata and wine from the Douro Valley, but not much else, so booking a food tour seemed the right thing to do.

Basia and I chose Eats, Street Art and Undiscovered Lisbon by Eating Europe, a company that operates in several European cities and provides truly local experiences in real neighborhoods. I had done a tour with them in Paris, discovering new places in my own quarter, so I knew we would be in good hands. Eating Europe goes beyond food, diving into the history, culture, and even language of the place you’re visiting. It was no different in Lisbon.

The eclectic food tour with Eating Europe doubled as an introduction to the Portuguese culture, including fado music.

The 3.5-hour, small-group food walk took us around two very different neighborhoods: Baixa and Mouraria. In Baixa, the historical and commercial center of Lisbon, wide avenues and squares bordered by Neoclassical buildings mix with bars and restaurants on pedestrian cobbled streets. The medieval Mouraria, one of the two districts to survive the 1755 earthquake, is the birthplace of fado music and one of the most multicultural neighborhoods of Lisbon.

What these two areas have in common is great food. As we wandered the backstreets, our guide gave us an overview of the various influences that have shaped Portuguese cuisine: from the Roman invasion in the 3rd century BC to the arrival of Moors in the 8th century. “Portuguese food isn’t supposed to look good,” she explained, as we were served copious amounts of traditional fare and dishes with an international influence.

We started off with bifana, a juicy sandwich on crusty bread with sautéd and seasoned pork*, great with beer and typically enjoyed as late-night food. Next up was a fresh codfish and bean salad (bacalhau, or codfish, is likely the best-known dish in the country), served al fresco with a glass of white wine. Then we had chamuças (samosas) with spicy sauce and African beer at a Mozambican restaurant (Mozambique was a Portuguese colony until 1975), followed by a visit to a traditional fado house and an outdoor photo exhibit that pays tribute to fado artists.

Pastéis de nata, Portugal’s famed egg custard tarts, are best enjoyed hot and sprinkled with cinnamon or sugar.

While listening to live music, we were served an everyday Portuguese dish: slow-cooked meat in tomato sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes. After that we were introduced to peixinhos da horta, a local comfort food, which literally means “little fish from the garden” and consists of breaded, fried green beans with a mayonnaise dipping sauce. Before indulging in freshly baked pastéis de nata to finish off the tour, we climbed a few hilly streets of neighboring Alfama and stopped for photos at an observation deck. That evening, we only had room for a light dinner.

(*Dietary restrictions? No worries, just mention them when you book a tour. I was offered vegetarian options in every place we stopped.)

Lisbon sights: Alfama, Belém, and Baixa

We were back in Alfama the next day and stayed a little longer. Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood and survivor of the 18th century earthquake stretches on a steep hill between the São Jorge Castle and the Tagus River. Once a grim district, it is now a hip area with a rich heritage.

Enjoy views of the Tigus River and Lisbon’s red roofs from the many miradouros (viewpoints).

Alfama is a maze of narrow streets and historic buildings, many covered with ornate azulejo tiles: mostly blue and white, some green and yellow. These tiles date back to the Moorish period (the Arabic-derived name means “polished stone”) and became part of the Portuguese culture around the 16th century. They are both decorative and practical, providing temperature control.

In addition to the medieval castle, Alfama has several other landmarks, such as the Lisbon Cathedral from the 12th century (often called the Sé, short for Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa or Sé de Lisboa), and the 17th century Church of Santa Engrácia, later converted into the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional). It is also home to the Roman Amphitheater (Teatro Romano) and Fado Museum (Museo do Fado), in addition to fado bars, small cafés, independent shops, and several viewpoints, e.g. Portas do Sol between the castle and cathedral.

Alfama is a delight to explore on foot, though many visitors opt for the historic tram 28 (tip: tram 12 has a similar route, but tends to get less crowded). It is best to wear sports shoes with a solid grip, as the calçada-paved streets are slippery and steep.

Our Lisbon city break included a sunset photoshoot in Alfama with Localgrapher.

We learned it the hard way, wearing fashion sandals for our photoshoot with Localgrapher. But that didn’t ruin the otherwise fun experience, which took us to some of the loveliest spots around Alfama. Among them tree-lined streets, sunny plazas, dramatic staircases, and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, an observation deck with a pergola, little garden, decorative tiles, and striking views of the river and Alfama’s red roofs.

We had booked a vacation photographer, because we wanted to capture our special trip (at least part of it) and have a beautiful souvenir, something better than phone pics. My friend was not used to photoshoots, but our photographer Ksenia made the experience a breeze. We missed having her the next day, when we ventured out west of the city center to the district of Belém.

Many of Lisbon’s landmarks are located in Belém, where 15th c. explorers began sea journeys.

Accessible by train, Belém is where many Portuguese explorers started their sea voyages in the 15th century, so the area is the location of many landmarks. You can go up the Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) for views of Belém and the Tagus River estuary, and get first-row views of Ponte 25 de Abril, the suspension bridge connecting Lisbon with nearby Almada. (Fun fact: The bridge may look like the Golden Gate, but it was actually built by the same company that constructed the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge.)

There is also the Belém Tower (Torre de Belém), a 16th century limestone fortification that served as a fortress and gateway to Lisbon. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983, along with the nearby Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos) built in the Portuguese late Gothic style. Vasco da Gama spent a night there before his voyage to India.

Belèm is home to the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge and Torre de Belém, a 16th century fortification and UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The district is home to the pink Palácio Nacional de Belém, official residence of the President of Portugal, and a number of museums, e.g. the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia or MAAT in Portuguese) with great views of the suspension bridge from a rooftop deck, and the National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches), which features a collection of historical carriages.

Once the location of docks and shipyards, Belém is an attractive district with a botanical garden, parks, tree-lined squares, and lots of open space, a contrast to the city center. Find a bench or a spot on the grass and enjoy tarts from Fábrica Pastéis de Belém, which has been baking them since 1837 (they are probably the best ones I tasted). Don’t forget to sprinkle some cinnamon on top, like the locals do.

The remainder of our trip included an afternoon at the LX Factory, a former industrial complex housing retail shops and restaurants, located between Belém and the city center.

Street art in LX Factory, a former industral complex housing shops and restaurants.

We also went back to Baixa, home of the Elevador de Santa Justa, a 19th century wrought-iron elevator with a viewing platform 45m above ground, and the Commerce Square (Praça do Comércio), Lisbon’s impressive central plaza that once housed the Royal Palace. The square opens onto Ribeira das Naus, a former boatyard-turned-beach with wide steps extending into the river. Follow the pedestrian promenade along the water to Time Out Market Lisboa. The busy food hall features 35 kiosks selling regional specialties and a few restaurants by top chefs.

We also made sure to visit two other central neighborhoods: Bairro Alto and Chiado. The former is known for its nightlife, the latter for shopping and theaters – in the 19th century, the area was a popular hangout of artists and intellectuals. Basia and I had met while studying English at university, so we couldn’t leave Lisbon without visiting the oldest operating bookstore in the world, Livraria Bertrand (est. 1732).

Gardens surrounding Miradouro de Santa Luzia, an observation deck in Alfama.

I was back in Lisbon a few months later. It was for a work conference, but I came a few days early to enjoy the city. As I revisited some of my favorite spots in Alfama, Belém and beyond, I noticed how comfortable I felt, even without knowing much of the language.

Lisbon has a welcoming and laid-back vibe, not always present in larger capitals. Once it is safe to travel again after coronavirus, I will do another Lisbon city break. But this time around, I will speak more Portuguese.

I was a guest of Localgrapher and Eating Europe. All opinions are mine.